Selbach-Oster Mosel Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Trocken Grosses Gewachs 2023 Grower Champagne this Non Dosé strips Champagne

this Non Dosé strips Champagne back to its essentials — just chalk

with powdery tannins and lively acids holding everything in line

Prohibition and fashion buried the grape

Writers' Tears is triple distilled

and forest-floor complexity that only old Barolo can offer

Selbach-Oster Mosel Riesling Zeltinger Sonnenuhr Trocken Grosses Gewachs 2023 Grower Champagne this Non Dosé strips ChampagneThe Zeltinger Sonnenuhr the sundial vineyard is one of the Mosel's monuments: a wall of blue slate so steep that picking it is closer to rock climbing than farming. This is Selbach Oster's Grosses Gewchs, the dry wine from their best mid slope parcels, including vines still growing on their original ungrafted roots. It rests on its lees for the better part of a year, which gives it a breadth and texture you don't expect from a grape this high strung.